Mt Baruntse and Mera Peak Expedition: with Himalayan Alpine Adventure Trek & Expedition
Mt Baruntse lies in the heart of the Khumbu region in the lap of Mt Everest, Mt Lhotse and Mt Makalu. This mountain is becoming famous for its expeditions just as Mt Pumori, Mt Ama Dablam and Mt Everest are. Baruntse is an attractive mountain for climbing due to its location, classical symmetrical beauty and is relatively accessible to climbers with a wide range of skills. It is the most accessible 7000m peak in the region. World famous climbers Sir Edmund Hillary and Jim McFarland were also the first summiteers of Mt Baruntse. Collin Todd and Geoff Harrow ascended Mt. Baruntse firstly on 30 May 1954.
The South-east Ridge of Baruntse is a bit difficult, but is a straightforward climb. In the expedition of Mt Baruntse there are hard sections of 50 degrees elevation with a prominent ice cliff for climbing and the risk of avalanches. The climbers have been most successful in the spring; this is the safest season. However, some climbers have reached the top of Mt Baruntse in the autumn season too.
Expeditions on Baruntse experience a sense of being in a remote area without having to investing any considerable time or effort. There are two ways of getting to the peak from Lukla: via Mera La Pass and Hunku Glacier with a possibility of climbing Mera Peak as a part of the adventure; and from Tumlingtar along the Makalu access trek and West Barun glacier. The second option also offers a crossover and walk out via Mera La Pass to Lukla, a full spectrum adventure.
The ascent route for the Baruntse Expedition is along the southern ridge overhanging the famous West Pass; this is in fact the traditional route opened by Hillary and Ship Ton in 1952. The regular approach begins at Lukla and takes you across the Hungu Valley, one of the most fertile regions in Nepal, passing northward through a beautiful alpine environment. The walk passes through delightful Sherpa country and provides excellent acclimatization. The Baruntse Base Camp is at an altitude of around 54,000m and sits near the pristine lake below Amphu Laptsa Pass. The route then follows a long ridge leading to the summit.
Mt Baruntse Climbing Base Camp Services:
Himalayan Alpine Adventure Trek and Expedition Pvt. Ltd. provide a very professional, helpful and friendly services from Kathmandu to the Baruntse base camp and during the climb. Our main objective is to provide to an international standard, helpful, safe, friendly, stress free and comprehensive services to maximize Mt Baruntse’s summit opportunities.
We offer a wide range of services from base camp to the fully guided climb with individual climbing Sherpa helping their clients to achieve a summit.
High elevation climbing requires not only a set of climbing skills and fitness levels, but also the ability to cope with high elevation conditions affecting the ability to function at the same extent as at sea level, where most of the climbers are living.
Our philosophy is to support climbers using the skills and the inherent high altitude ability of climbing Sherpa, whose families have lived at higher elevation for generations.
Mt Baruntse, as all 7000+ m peaks, requires the setting-up of 2-3 high camps, where the climbing gear, food and fuel has to be carried. No matter how physically strong and fit one is at sea level, at high altitude your physical efficiency drops considerably and the team of climbing Sherpa pooled from all clients will set up the route and allow you to summit.
Having personal climbing Sherpa eliminates the need for the “Leader” to decide who will get limited climbing support on the summit day. In emergency situations the typical expedition leader has responsibility for a number of people, including themselves, who have impaired physical abilities due to being at high altitude, while with Himalayan Alpine Adventure Trek and Expedition climbing Sherpa just have responsibility for their own client. Our climbing Sherpa / guides are highly trained and experienced climbers doing high elevation climb in Nepal, Tibet and Pakistan season after season.
We believe that our philosophy of an expedition with the base camp leader coordinator and the team of climbing Sherpa assigned to individual climbers is by far the most efficient and safest way to achieve high elevation summits.
Our base camp cook and helper will prepare and serve three delicious, freshly cooked and plentiful meals a day and will ensure that hot and cold drinks are available 24hrs a day.
We provide spacious, expedition-quality, personal tents for all clients. We also provide a dining tent, kitchen tent, toilet and shower facilities, and tent accommodation for staff and porters.
We provide access to communication including satellite telephone and internet access, solar panels to charge the battery and UHF/ VHF hand-held radios on the mountain to maintain the communication between base camp and higher camps.
Our leader and base camp manager as well as climbing Sherpa have extensive experience of multiple climbs above 8000 m, so whether you use our full board service or only base camp services you can expect good advice and support from them. They also know personally most of the other climbing Sherpa and network together in the base camp regardless of the operator they work for.
Mt Baruntse Expedition Full Board Services:
For full board clients, i.e. the less experienced climber or single climbers requiring a climbing friend, we provide a personal tent and food at high camps with the climbing Sherpa.
We provide a personal climbing Sherpa/ guide to help the client to reach the summit. The personal climbing Sherpa will set up high camp, including food provision and fuel, and will guide and assist the client on the summit day and if required will set up fixed rope to ensure safety during the climb.
We provide the climbing Sherpa with appropriate radio communication to base camp from the climbing route. Our climbing Sherpa will network with other clients’ climbing Sherpa on the route to ensure the safety of their client as well as the overall expedition team.
After arriving at the base camp (5300m) we will take a day or so of acclimatizing rest and make preparations, including snow practice, so that we all develop a common understanding and refresh our basic climbing and rescue techniques. We also develop our climbing protocol. Our climbing protocol will follow principles of standard high elevation and acclimatization and the progressive building of camps.
The standard route begins at the base camp (5300m) located on the Hunku Glacier at the foot of the mountain on a small beautiful lake, which will be our drinking water source.
We will first climb to camp 1 located at 600m. Along the Hunku Glacier to the 150m long steep gully leading to the West Col, we will set up a fixed rope bee line to the Col, climb to camp 1 and return to the base camp for overnight rest. As a next step, we climb up to camp 1, set it up and stay there overnight. We will explore the route to camp 2 and return to the base camp for another rest day.
We move from the base camp directly to camp 2 (6400m), set up the camp and stay overnight there.
There will be an opportunity for a summit attempt for climbing members who feel strong. We return to base camp for a couple of days to rest and recover followed by another summit attempt. Our programme allows nine days for the climbing period to account for weather and individual physical condition and strength. It gives us plenty of opportunity to carry supplies to camp 1 and 2 and a few opportunities for a summit push.
The Climbing Route:
Normal Route South-east Route:
The South-east Ridge of Baruntse is a straightforward climb, mainly on snow but at high altitudes and crossing some steep sections of ice at 50°, with a prominent ice cliff at about 7000 m; we will set up fixed lines there.
The ridge’s geography and position make it prone to the accumulation of cornices, which appear very stable. We safeguard the steeper section by fixing lines to places where we have to traverse between the camps. The avalanche risk on the lower slopes of the mountain appears to be low. The most successful ascents are made in the spring when good snow conditions prevail. This is also objectively the safest time on the mountain.
We establish the base camp at 5300m in a broad, open valley next to a beautiful lake on the lateral moraine of the Hunku Glacier near the base of the mountain.
Camp 1 6100 m
To reach camp 1, 6100m, located on the West Col on the edge of the upper Barun Glacier, we cross Hunku Glacier to a steep gully leading directly towards it. The 150m steep and 50° climb to the West Col from the glacier there will be via fixed ropes, which provide a beeline to camp 1 for the safe carrying of the loads required for the climbs.
Camp 2 6400 m
Camp 2, 6400m, is located on the West Col on the edge of the upper Barun Glacier at the start of the South-east Ridge. From camp 1 at West Col we begin a long glacier ascent on a low angled glacial slope; we may need to use a fixed rope to protect against open or hidden crevasses.
From camp 2 we climb up the short, steep slope of a 75° ice wall to a small col at 6500m. The next section, to 6700m, is a 45° snow shoulder after which we reach the sharp summit ridge of Baruntse. We follow this to the wide summit cone leading to the main summit at 7129m. The view from the summit is just incredible: truly stunning views of Mt Lhotse, Mt Everest and Mt Cho Oyo, Mt Kanchenjunga, Mt Makalu and the Khumbu Himalayan range.
Note: This expedition price will vary depending on the group size, duration and services required.Please contact us with your detail to obtain a quote.
Day 1: Arrive to Kathmandu meet with representative of Himalayan Alpine Adventure and transfer to the hotel by private van/jeep.
Day 2: Free day in Kathmandu expedition equipment checking and shopping.
Day 3: Mt Baruntse expedition briefing at ministry of tourism.
Day 4: Early morning domestic flight to Lukla and trek to Chhutak.
Day 5: Trek to Panggoma
Day 6: Trek to Kurke.
Day 7: Trek to thuli Kharka
Day 8: Trek to Kothe.
Day 9: Trek to Thangnak.
Day 10: Rest day.
Day 11: Trek to Khare.
Day 13: climb to high camp.
Day 14: Mera peak summut.
Day 15: Trek to Kongma dingma
Dy 16 : Trek to Seti Phokhari
Day 17: Trek to Barunte base camp
Day 18-31 Climbing time of Baruntse.
Day 32: Packing the climbing equipment at base camp.
Day 33: Trek back to Seti pokhari.
Day 34: Trek to Mera base camp.
Day 35: Trek to Kothe.
Day 36: Trek to Thuli kharka.
Day 37: Trek to Lukla.
Day 38: Lukla to Kathmandu and free day.
Day 39: Free day in Kathmandu
day 40 : Final departure.
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